Soldering Techniques

Book Extract

Soldering is not at all difficult, but a bit of practice helps.

• If the tip has become burned and pock-marked, restore its condition using a file, and then thoroughly re-tin it.
• The surfaces of the area to be soldered must be clean and free of corrosion – this means they must be bright. Dull surfaces may be easily cleaned with wire wool or fine sandpaper.
• The surfaces must be tinned before making the joint – this is the application of a thin layer of solder to the areas to be joined. 
• If the joint has a dull, crinkled look, it was not hot enough or the joint was moved before it had cooled – this is known as a dry joint. It will have high electrical resistance and poor mechanical strength and must be remade.
• If you are not sure about the joint, give it a good wiggle and check for excessive movement, this should prove if it’s a good joint or a dry joint.

A poor joint like this must be re-made

Some form of clamping may be required if you run out of hands! It’s also very useful to have a holder in which to safely rest the hot soldering iron. 

Soldering iron stand

Take care not to melt the wire’s insulation.

Soldering this battery cable lug has melted the insulation

Heavy-Duty Joints
Soldering heavy cables may be achieved by using a gas blowtorch, as used for plumbing. There’s a big danger of melting the wire’s insulation and a better option is (usually) crimping using a professional heavy-duty crimping tool (see Chapter 7: Connections). 

 

Taken from Essential Boat Electrics by Oliver Ballam & pat Manley.

© Not to be reproduced without written permission from Fernhurst Books Limited.